Broadheads

What a broadhead does that a field point doesn't

A field point is a blunt practice tip. A broadhead is the hunting point: two or more sharpened blades around a center body called the ferrule, with a threaded stud on the back. Archery 360 puts it simply: broadheads are for hunting. Screw-in inserts glued into the shaft are what let you swap between practice points and broadheads on the same arrow.

That swap is the whole system. You practice all summer with field points, then thread on broadheads of the same weight and confirm they hit the same spot. If they don't, you tune until they do (more on that below). The arrows themselves are on the hunting arrows page.

The table on this page lists every broadhead we track, fixed, mechanical and hybrid, sorted by grain weight. It shows type, weight, cutting diameter, blade count, blade thickness and pack count as the maker or the Amazon listing states them (the table marks values that come from the listing). A dash means neither states it.

The three broadhead types and when each one fits

Here's what actually changes between the three. Each type has its own page with the deciding specs worked out in detail.

• Fixed blade: blades never move. GOHUNT describes them staying put before, during and after impact. More on the fixed blade broadheads page.
• Mechanical: blades ride folded close to the ferrule in flight and open on impact. They're also called expandable. More on the mechanical broadheads page.
• Hybrid: a set of fixed blades plus a set that opens. One pair of hybrid heads in Archery Business carried two fixed and two expandable blades each.

The short version of the trade, from GOHUNT's breakdown: fixed heads are less forgiving and will show you every tuning or form problem you have. Mechanicals are more forgiving and often hit with field points out of the box. Deploying blades costs some energy, which is why they're usually not recommended for light setups.

(Uncle Walt's position on mechanical broadheads is that he doesn't trust anything with a hinge he can't see. He says this while sitting on a folding chair.)

Hybrids list two cut sizes, so read both

A hybrid is a small fixed head with a second set of blades that open behind it. The pair in Archery Business list two numbers each: 1-1/8 inches for the fixed blades and 1-5/8 inches with the expandable blades open. Our table stores the larger number, so check the maker's page for the fixed cut too.

Retention differs by version. The bow model in that article holds its folding blades with an O-ring, and the crossbow model uses a friction washer. That's a good reminder that a hybrid still has moving parts, and those parts need the same checks as any mechanical.

Which type for which hunt

GOHUNT's author reaches for mechanicals on longer shots or in higher wind, and fixed heads on heavy-boned, tough animals where penetration comes first. The Union Sportsmen's Alliance adds that large heads can plane (veer off line) at long range, so Western hunters shooting 50 yards or more often go compact. Pick the one your bow tunes best with.

What to look at when you pick broadheads

The table shows six fields. Here's how to read each one, in the order I check them.

Match grain weight to the arrow you already tuned

Weight is listed in grains, the small unit arrow people use (437.5 grains to the ounce). Archery 360 calls 100 grains par for compound arrows. Points under 100 suit bows at about 50 lb and lighter. Points over 100 add weight for penetration.

Weight isn't a free choice, though. Most spine charts assume a 100-grain point, and Archery 360 notes that adding weight up front makes the shaft act weaker. Easton's tuning guide treats broadhead weight as a tuning lever: heavier heads correct arrows that act stiff, lighter heads correct ones that act weak.

My one opinion on this page: there's no universally "best" broadhead grain, only the one that matches your setup. The checkable reason is in Easton's guide. A heavier head moves where the broadhead group lands, so the right weight is whichever one groups with your tuned field points.

Cutting diameter is the widest cut the blades make

Cutting diameter is how wide the blades cut, in inches, as the maker or the listing states it. For a mechanical head that's the opened width. Petersen's Hunting says most fixed heads cut about 1-1/4 inches, while mechanicals commonly cut 1-1/2 to 2 inches, with some going past 2.

Bigger isn't automatically better. Wider blades on a fixed head catch more air, and wider blades on a mechanical take more energy to push through. The two sub-type pages cover how to size each one.

Blade count changes the cut, not just the look

The "Blades" column counts cutting blades. GOHUNT lists fixed heads in 2, 3 and 4-blade versions, with mechanicals most often 2 or 3. Its rule of thumb: fewer blades generally penetrate better, more blades generally cut more tissue. Blade design can shift that either way.

Blade thickness is the maker's stated steel stock

Blade thickness is given in thousandths of an inch. Not every maker or listing states it, so expect dashes. When it's there, it's the one field in the table that tells you how much steel each blade carries. Read it next to the type: a thin blade that folds into a ferrule and a thick blade bolted to one are built for different jobs.

Pack count tells you how many you can practice with

Most broadheads come in packs of three. That number matters more than it looks. Bowhunter's prep guide suggests shooting only broadheads for the last two weeks before the season, with three arrows tipped with your hunting head, and keeping heads just for practice. Count on a pack for practice and a pack for the hunt.

Crossbow-rated means the maker says so

Some heads come in a crossbow version or carry a speed rating. G5 says fixed heads work the same from a compound or a crossbow, but it recommends only the crossbow version of its expandable heads on a crossbow. Our crossbow list includes a head only when its maker states crossbow use. Details are on the crossbow broadheads page.

Broadheads for compound bow setups

Compound bow broadheads are where all three types are common, because a modern compound usually has the energy to open a mechanical. Makers of expandable heads publish kinetic energy floors, and G5 and New Archery Products both list theirs in the 40 to 50 ft-lb range for deer-size game.

Fletching matters here too. Archery 360's compound arrow guide says fixed heads need more steering and recommends 2 to 3-inch fletching, while mechanicals get by with less. If you shoot feathers off a shelf, the recurve bow page is the better start.

Other broadhead types worth knowing

A few narrower jobs get their own pages:

• Crossbow broadheads: heads sold in a crossbow version or rated for crossbow speeds
• Turkey broadheads: heads sold for turkey and head shots
• Single bevel broadheads: fixed heads sharpened on one side of each blade
• 100 grain broadheads: the par weight, all types together

The head-to-head on the two big types is in the mechanical vs fixed broadheads guide.

How to set up and tune broadheads before the season

Bowhunter's prep guide and Easton's tuning guide line up into one routine:

1. Spin-test. Thread each head onto its arrow and spin it. Wobble at the tip means a bad head or a shaft end that isn't square.
2. Weigh. Put each head on a scale that reads grains and compare it to the stated weight.
3. Tune with field points first. Easton says broadhead tuning only works after field points group well.
4. Shoot both groups. From 20 to 30 yards, shoot 3 or 4 field points, then 3 or 4 broadheads at the same aiming spot.
5. Fix height first. Broadheads high means move the nocking point up; low means move it down.
6. Then left and right. For a right-handed archer, broadheads left act stiff and broadheads right act weak.
7. One change at a time. Easton moves rests in 1/32-inch steps.

Easton's caution goes on its own line: never shoot a broadhead on an unfletched shaft, because flight is extremely erratic and dangerous.

Quick math on those energy floors. Kinetic energy grows with arrow weight and with the square of speed; New Archery Products divides grains × speed² by 450,240. So 425 grains at 280 FPS (feet per second) works out to about 74 ft-lb. (I did that on the back of a Wawa receipt. Walt checked it on a calculator older than me.)

Keep broadheads sharp and covered

A broadhead can cut you through a glove, so handle it like a knife. Keep heads in a covered quiver or case, thread them on with a broadhead wrench instead of your fingers, and point the blades away from yourself and others.

Oregon's wildlife department says to make sure broadheads are safely covered, and Wisconsin DNR recommends a covered quiver to protect you and the points.

Sharpness is checkable. Bowhunter's guide gives two tests: a sharp edge grabs and holds on a thumbnail, and it slices paper with an even stroke. Heads that fail either test stay home. Sharpening steps are in the how to sharpen broadheads guide.

Practice into a target built for broadheads; field-point bags aren't made for blades. Those are on the broadhead target page.

Broadhead rules depend on where you hunt

States set their own minimums. Minnesota, for one, requires big-game arrowheads to be sharp, barbless, at least 7/8 inch wide, with two or more metal cutting edges. Broadhead rules vary by state, so check your state wildlife agency before the season.

Who can skip this page

If you only shoot targets or 3D, you don't need broadheads at all. Field points are cheaper to lose and kinder to your target. And if your bow isn't tuned with field points yet, broadheads won't fix it. Tune first, then come back with a pack and the logbook.