Bow String

What a bow string is, and why it wears out

A bowstring is a bundle of thin strands of synthetic fiber, twisted together and finished with loops or served ends that attach to the bow. Serving is thread wrapped tightly over the string where it takes wear: the middle, where the arrow nocks on, and the ends. On a compound, serving also goes wherever the string or cables touch a cam or roller guard.

Strings wear out in two ways. Shooting rubs and shocks them. And tension alone breaks them down over time. One string maker points out that strings and cables stay under load even when the bow sits in the case, which is why they stretch, fray and dry out.

That makes a bowstring a wear part, like tires. Uncle Walt's answer to most worn-out gear is a 7/16 wrench and an opinion. Neither one fixes a string. When it's done, it's done, and the only tool that helps is a new one.

The table on this page lists replacement strings with what the makers or the Amazon listings state: material, what bow it's for, string length, which models it fits, strand count, whether cables are included and, for traditional strings, construction. A dash means neither the maker nor the listing states it. The table marks values that come from the listing.

What to look at when you buy a replacement bow string

Start with the bow it's for

The "For" column splits strings three ways, and each works differently:

• Compound: cut to a specific bow model's string length, often sold with matching cables
• Recurve or longbow: ordered by length, material and strand count
• Crossbow: made to the crossbow maker's spec for that model

Read this column before anything else. A compound string won't fit a recurve, and a crossbow string is built for loads and lengths that only make sense on that crossbow. Traditional strings have more detail on the recurve bow string page; crossbow strings are on the crossbow string page.

Compound strings: fit the exact model

A compound string isn't "about right." It has to match the string length your bow's maker specifies, to the fraction of an inch. The "Fits" column lists the bow models a string is made for, and the "String length" column gives the number.

Where to find your numbers: check the limb sticker. One string maker's order form asks for bow make, model, string length and each cable length, all of which are usually printed there. No sticker? The owner's manual is next. If both are gone, a pro shop can usually look up the specs from the model.

Quick sorting tip from the same maker: a single-cam bowstring usually runs over 70 inches, and a two-cam string under 69.

Count what's in the box: string only, or string and cables

The "Includes cables" column matters more than it looks. On a compound, the string is the long piece you draw. Cables are the shorter pieces that run between the cams and keep them working together.

One string maker lays out what a set includes:

• Single-cam bow: one string and one cable
• Dual-cam or hybrid-cam bow: one string and two cables
• Control cable: looks like a shorter string
• Buss cable: shaped like a Y, two loops on one end and one on the other

Strings and cables age together. The same maker treats them as one replacement job, on the same schedule. A new string paired with tired cables is like new shoes with old laces. It works, but you'll be back at the shop soon. When you compare a string-only listing to a full set, you're comparing different jobs.

Material decides speed, stretch and which bows can take it

The "Material" column names the fiber. Here's how one string maker describes the common ones:

• Dacron (polyester): very stretchy, with plenty of give. The maker calls it the right choice for wood longbows, vintage bows and bows without reinforced limb tips.
• Spectra, the original "Fast Flight" fiber: soft feel, but prone to creep, which is slow stretching under load
• Pure Dyneema: thin and fast; the maker found one such fiber stretches more in heat and doesn't use it on compounds
• Dyneema and Vectran blends: very stable through heat and humidity; the maker calls one the benchmark compound material, with a tendency to fuzz

The rule that matters most: low-stretch, high-modulus materials are only for bows built for them. One traditional-gear maker says these fast strings need limb protection. Another string maker says Dacron is the only material it calls safe on older bows. If you don't know whether your bow is rated for a modern material, use Dacron. Check the bow maker's manual or the limb marking first.

On a compound, stability is the point. The same maker dropped one faster material after some users reported minor retiming of their bows. Quick physics, kitchen edition: a rubber band stretches and springs back. A wet noodle stretches and stays stretched. Creep is the noodle.

String length vs AMO length on traditional bows

The "String length" column is where traditional strings get confusing. AMO length is a standard way to state a bow's length, and it's often printed on the limb. A string for that bow is shorter than the AMO number.

One string maker's ordering note says:

• Order about 3 inches shorter than the bow's unstrung AMO length
• Strings are measured under 100 lb of tension, the industry standard
• Listings vary: some recurve listings give the bow's AMO length instead of string length, so read the wording

Then fine-tune. Archery 360's stringing guide says to measure brace height with a bow square from the deepest part of the grip to the string. Too low, add a few twists. Too high, take a few out. Brace height targets come from the bow maker.

Strand count follows draw weight and nock fit

The "Strands" column is the number of fiber strands in the string. More strands make a thicker, stronger string. For Dacron, one string maker's chart reads:

• 12 strands: 35 to 45 lb
• 14 strands: 45 to 55 lb
• 16 strands: 55 to 75 lb
• 18 strands: 75 to 100 lb

That chart is for Dacron only. Counts for other fibers differ, so follow the chart for the material you're buying.

Strand count also changes string thickness, and thickness changes how your nocks fit. Archery 360's nock guide says the arrow should click onto the string and come off with a light tap. If a new string changes that, re-serving or a different nock groove is the fix. Nock fit is on the nocks page.

Flemish twist or endless loop

The "Construction" column applies to traditional strings. One traditional-gear maker explains the difference:

• Flemish twist: strand bundles are spliced together at the ends to form the loops
• Endless loop: one continuous strand wound around and joined, held together at the ends by wraps

The same maker says endless loop strings are less stretchy, which sends a bit more energy into the arrow but puts more load on the bow. That's why Flemish strings show up mostly on traditional bows. If your bow's maker names one style, use that one.

When to replace a bow string

One string maker's rule: about once a year on target bows and every two years on hunting bows. Target bows get shot more, and lighter target arrows put more stress on strings.

Replace sooner if you see:

• Frayed or separated strands, or individual strands sticking out
• A dry, fuzzy or brittle look that wax doesn't fix
• Worn-through serving at the ends or the nocking point
• Lost speed or accuracy that you can't trace to anything else
• Cam timing marks drifting on a compound

Wear creeps up slowly, so you won't feel it one shot at a time. The maker's line on wax is worth repeating: wax can stretch a tired string's life, but you're better off replacing it. (I keep the install date in a spreadsheet. Of course I do. It has a column for "looks fuzzy," and it's never empty in October.)

Replacing a bow string safely

Never shoot a bow with a frayed string or cable, and never dry-fire it. A dry fire can break the string and damage the cams and limbs.

Compound bows need a press

A compound stores a lot of energy, and you can't safely take the string off by hand. One string maker's steps, in short:

1. Read the bow's manual and the press's manual.
2. Put on safety glasses.
3. Mount the bow in the press per the press maker's instructions, centered and secure.
4. Compress the limbs slowly, only until the string and cables come off easily.
5. Photograph or sketch the cable routing.
6. Swap the string and cables with the bow still in the press, then release slowly.

If you don't own a press or haven't done this before, take it to a pro shop. After a new set goes on, check cam timing. On a two-cam or hybrid bow both cams should hit their draw stops at the same time. Bowhunter's cam tuning guide fixes a mismatch by twisting the buss cable end loop on the cam that hits first, half a turn at a time, then shooting a few arrows and checking again. Presses have their own page: the bow press page.

Recurves and longbows use a stringer

Archery 360 calls a bow stringer the only stringing method bow makers recommend. Slide the larger top loop over the upper limb, seat the bottom loop, fit the stringer, then stand on it and lift. Once the top loop is in its groove, remove the stringer with the limbs facing away from you. Get a shop to show you the first time.

New traditional strings stretch in their first days, so recheck brace height and add twists if it drops.

Crossbow strings follow the maker

Crossbow makers set their own string specs and care routines. One crossbow maker's safety page says to inspect the string and cables before every use, replace them before further use at any sign of fraying, and wax every 5 to 10 shots or when white fuzz appears. Use the string your crossbow's maker specifies.

Bow string care between replacements

A little care stretches the time between strings:

• Wax the string, not the serving. Archery 360 says wax on the servings holds dust and debris that can compromise them. Rub the stick back and forth until the wax softens; Bowhunter's string maintenance guide suggests a piece of leather or an old finger tab to add warmth. Just enough to keep the fibers lubricated, not a thick coat.
• Check the serving. The same guide says to look over every section of the string for damage, excess wear and serving separation.
• Clean the cams and cable slide so grit doesn't chew the serving.
• Use a D-loop so your release wears a cheap loop, not the center serving.
• Pack it right: no loose broadheads or wrenches rattling in the case, and no straps around the string.

Wax and care are on the bow string wax page.

Who can skip this page

If your bow is new this season and the string looks clean, tacky and tight, you don't need a string yet. And if you'd rather not touch a press, you can skip the how-to and go straight to the shop with your limb sticker numbers. Everyone else: write the install date down somewhere you'll actually look.